An Update from Nepal

I was warned by Dr. Fitzpatrick that it would happen about halfway through the trip--feeling as if I actually live here. The first few weeks I spent every waking second seeing, learning, talking, eating, as I usually do when I travel. Then I got to the point where I was just living day-to-day life as the Nepalese do. I've been back to city life for a couple weeks, and I've realized that the month I spent in Jhapa district was the most meaningful part of my trip (though every part has been meaningful in some way!). In the countryside, though there are not typical sites to visit or typical adventures to endure, this is where I learned most about Nepal. 

The wealth disparity is most apparent in Jhapa district, with wealthy families and politicians living in multiple-story concrete houses, many with air conditioning (that's a biggie). Across a bridge and fewer than a couple kilometers away lives the village people, living on a couple bucks a day. The villages in Jhapa were relatively prosperous and the people were relatively healthy, because of equilibrium of supply and demand of livestock, fairly easy access to market/resources, and increasing social capital. Most of the households in these villages had some electricity for mediocre lighting and maybe a fan or two. My general observations were that the village people were happy, particularly the women I met. The creation of the Heifer women's groups has brought the ladies together to talk about raising livestock and have empowered them to continue making their own sources of income. 

It wasn’t until I visited a neighboring district, Sunsari, where I witnessed the true poverty. Upon arriving in the remote villages, the people had a different persona about them. This is not to sound cliché, but the people looked tired. There was minimal livestock, and sanitation was poor. Heifer, with the help of partner organizations and political groups, have assisted this village in starting acres of grazing space—many types of plants and grasses—for future livestock. This visit was successful in that we learned that their grazing space was almost ready for a project intervention, whereas Heifer and the partner organizations will provide livestock. 

Living in the countryside for a month enabled me to live truly like a Nepali. Sometimes, it’s a rough life: sweating in 100 degree weather with no fan because the power is out again, not working or schooling some days because of a political strike (can’t drive anywhere or your motor bike could get blown up), getting stuck on one side of a river for hours because of lack of infrastructure, praying that monsoons won’t cause damage or casualties, and hiding under the mosquito net at night from a multitude of unknown insect varieties. But overall, it’s a sweet life: seeing the same faces every day and ‘namasting’ to passerbys, eating amazingly delicious food made from fresh vegetables and fruits, sitting in the presence of others and simply spending so much time with others (though most of the time I couldn’t communicate), watching Bollywood films and Indian soap operas, drinking fresh, right-out-of-the-coconut coconut water, waking up at 5:00 a.m., working hard, yet at a much slower pace, playing cards, reading, and enjoying life.

I’m currently in Pokhara, a beautiful lake and mountain town, where I have done a little bit of work and observations of markets, but mostly relaxing and eating and shopping. I love it here way more than the busy city! Tomorrow Katie and I leave for Chitwan, where we will meet our friend Emily for a one night stay in a national park resort. Katie and I will continue on to the outskirts and live in the countryside for about to week. This is where I will continue my fieldwork and learn about backyard chicken, this time in the Chitwan district. 

Namaste from beautiful, sunny Pokhara!

Lots and Lots of Kukhuraa (Chicken!)

The past week I've really started getting into my work, tracking down the supply chain of backyard chickens. Kumar recruited his cousin Sandesh to translate for me. Sandesh is 17 and goes to school in Kathmandu, but he is home in Jhapa for a couple weeks. His English is spectacular, and he's been amazing help!! 

What I've learned: These value chains are among primitive markets that are oftentimes difficult to track. There is no fixed system, as I suspected. The non-fixed collector goes around in the villages to buy as many full grown chickens as he can find. For households, they are able to sell every 3-4 months, and all households I've spoken with so far have said their supply is not enough to meet the collector's demand. The collector either takes it straight to market and sells the chicken live to families himself or sells to butchers who dress and sell the chickens. 

If markets or butchers cannot sell all the chickens, they oftentimes sell to local hotels, with whom they have 'contracts.' I talked to two hotels, and again, it's a very informal system to obtain the chicken. The market vendor or butcher comes to the hotel almost daily to sell a fraction of what he has left from market that day. The hotels serve both backyard chicken and broiler chicken (broiler is a small, white, more commercialized chicken...different taste, too). The customer does not choose what type of chicken he or she is eating--the cooks just serve what they have, I suppose! 

There is also a middleman who collects from the villages and transports live chickens to Kathmandu, which is about a 12-hour bus ride. Supplying to Kathmandu is obviously more complex, seeing as the middleman has to worry about storing, transporting, and feeding the chicks so that they don't lose weight. Oftentimes by the time they chickens reach KTM they have already lost 100-200 grams. 

We visited a wholesale vet supply store and interviewed two Animal Community Health Workers (ACHW) at vaccines supply shops in the villages. Below, this woman and her husband have a shop to sell vaccines in the villages. This is their primary source of income. She has received training by Heifer! I plan to talk to a vet or two in the next couple of days as well as government entities in charge of chicken regulations. 

Upon leaving the villages yesterday we realized we were stuck there due to rain in the mountains flooding the river. There is a bridge half-built in this area, but there is no plan or timeline for it to to be completed. Sandesh said we could just wait it. One brave soul tried to cross on his motor bike but when he reached the other side his bike wouldn't start. You can imagine how often this happens during monsoon season! After about an hour and a half the current lessened and people started sloshing through pushing their bikes. Sandesh and I got brave and soaked and made it across! 

As for non-project related things, I've enjoyed spending time with my host family and the locals! There is a LOT of down time, so I've started playing solitaire with actual playing cards, and I'm on my last book that I packed. Yasoda (and everyone!) has been trying to teach me Nepali. I was sick for a few days, but thankfully cipro works like a pro! I probably should not have eaten that street food served on a newspaper with silverware they rinse off and share with every customer. Lesson learned! 

To close, here is a shot of the beautiful mountains seen from the villages! Namaste! 

Jhapa, Like Coming Home

I have made the move from big city to small town, and it feels. so. good. Dr. Keshav Sah, Animal Wellbeing Manager for Heifer Nepal, Sabina, who is also a vet for Heifer, and myself took a small plane from Kathmandu to Bhadrapur (Jhapa District) on Tuesday. Jhapa is in the very southeast corner of Nepal, bordering India. In Kathmandu when I told Nepalese I was headed to Jhapa they always said, "Jhaaaapa! Why you go there? So hot!" Stepping off the plane I felt it--that familiar wave of humidity felt in south Mississippi mid-August. But I could breathe fresh air! I could see trees! I could see mountains! Kathmandu, as fun and exciting as it is, is like lots of other big cities--crazy traffic, air pollution, ground pollution, screaming, honking, soliciting, scurrying.

A Heifer International driver picked us up in an air conditioned Toyota pick up truck--okay now I think I really am in Mississippi. Upon driving through the corn fields and tea gardens, "namastay-ing" to passerbys, I felt like I was coming home. I had arrived in the countryside. Peace, happiness, slow way of life, no worries mon! 

We drove about fifteen minutes to Birtamod, a fairly big hub of schools and shopping, then onward about 5 km to Shanischare-1 Khanipani, the small area in which I live with my host family. The number 1 denotes the Village Development Committee number. My home is beautiful and my family is even more beautiful and sweet and kind! I live with Ms. Rama Karki, her father, and her 18-year old daughter, Pranita. Ms. Karki has another daughter who is about my age...she is studying in Australia. Here is a picture of us! 

The first days in Jhapa were spent in the villages following a group from India filming a documentary. Recently, Heifer International Nepal partnered with GalvMed to pilot a Newcastle Disease vaccination project for backyard poultry in Jhapa. The evaluation of the pilot project turned out largely successful; there have been zero outbreaks of Newcastle Disease among backyard poultry in the target areas. So GalvMed came to film a documentary of the project's successes. It was a perfect way to be introduced to rural life in Jhapa--I was able to see and listen and learn...with no pressure! GalvMed's work overlaps beautifully with Cathrine's BYP project in India and Tyler's in Cambodia. Connection made! 

The villages are absolutely beautiful! Upon arrival, some women welcomed us with flowers and cooked us a yummy meal of dal bhat! It rained for hours afterwards, so we were stuck just sitting and talking (well, I was listening to Nepali). Here is myself, Dr. Keshav, and the Heifer International driver about to enjoy dal bhat in the village.

What I've learned in the field so far is that households with Backyard Poultry (BYP) have increased profit since the Newcastle Disease vaccination project. They have lost zero chicks due to ND. Women of the household are generally in charge of raising the chicks, and Heifer International coordinates women's groups that convene to talk about training and tactics. This initiative has led to increased women's empowerment in the villages, whereas before the ladies relied heavily on their husbands for their economic and social wellbeing. 

Every 3-4 months, a collector comes to pay for as many chickens as possible. For one woman I spoke with, because she sold 1 lot of chickens she could afford to build a new room for her family of 5. The houses are generally one bedroom unless the family has added on because of BYP sales or other sales. Many, if not most, households rely on BYP as their main source of income, though they oftentimes rear a few goats or cows as well. Here is a woman who is feeding her chicks. She is a member of a Heifer women's group!

That first day in the village is when I learned of the extremely laid-back, slow way of life here in the Nepali countryside. I thought Mississippians had a slow way of life, or even South Africans, but this is completely different. I have not seen a single person in a hurry for any reason. There are not really appointments, but more of vague plans that may or may not happen. Any time you visit a household, expect to sit to chat and have tea and most likely eat a homemade snack! Everyone is so hospitable! The population is somewhat small, so people know the gossip. Ms. Karki said that everyone around town is saying, "Who is that white girl on the back of Kumar's motor bike?!" I've gotten used to the staring. I just smile, and they smile back! 

Kumar is the director of a partner organization of Heifer. Heifer finds these partner organizations to implement and sustain projects in rural areas that do not have Heifer offices...great idea! So Kumar is my main contact here in Jhapa. His house is right next door, and the office of his organization is walking distance. He, his wife, and his two beautiful children had Sabina and me over for dinner last night. His son's name is Abhi, so it gets confusing...Abby vs. Abhi. Kumar is a writer, Tae Kwan Do master, and lawyer. I'm in good hands. 

Yesterday, Kumar's cousin took me around to the local markets to talk/translate to chicken sellers and butchers. My 'Rite in the Rain' fieldbook worked like a pro! It didn't stop raining, at minimum sprinkling, all day. I am attempting to stick to my work plan, but it's more of a go-with-the-flow work environment here. Any time I have access to a translator, I utilize that moment! 

It's now June 2nd, and I plan to be in Jhapa for about 3 more weeks. I will then most likely travel to Sunsari and Morgang districts, which are just to the west of Jhapa. Then I will hopefully visit Dang district in the midwest, then back to Kathmandu. I'm trying to plan a spare 1-3 weeks in KTM to visit more markets, write, and present my report. 

I will be really sad when I have to leave Jhapa district! Until then I will be enjoying the slooow way of life, my sweet host family, townies, BYP, momo, dal bhat, and tea! 

Namaste! From Jhapa!
Abby

Markets, Monsoon, and Religion

Since the last post, I've moved to a new guesthouse in Thamel called Pilgrims Guesthouse. It's a little cheaper, and the only real difference is that a maid doesn't come in every day to make my bed. Which is fine, because I always make the bed before the maid comes anyway. Can't get ready or start the day without a made bed...you know I'm Dawn Olivier's child! I love the new guesthouse, and I've made friends with the restaurant manager, Sunny. Sunny has quickly become one of my best friends here!! He's been the manager for years and meets so many tourists that he's fluent in English, Spanish, German, and French. He hopes to visit America soon.

Last week was my first full week working at Heifer! I learned the ropes, and I now better understand the significance of backyard poultry here in the city. As promised, here is a picture of Heifer International in Nepal! 

For two days Alina (the sweetest, most helpful partner) and I scooted around the city to talk to people in backyard chicken production. She translated, and I just smiled and scribed. Our first stop was an informal market on the side of the road. This man, Mr. Lama (same name as my personal taxi driver who is actually Sunny's uncle), sells about 100 chicks per week. He gets the chickens from Jhapa District. Cool! Because that's the district where I'm going to start following the supply chain! When we first showed up, he was "dressing" a chicken for a customer. That means chopping the chicken's head off, pouring out the blood, heating it up in a boiler, peeling the feathers off, butchering it, wrapping it, and putting it in a baggie...all on the side of the road. From start to finish it took Lama about 5-10 minutes. The fresh chicken was sold for 550 Nepalese Rupees + 40 NPR for Lama to dress it. 590 NPR is just under 7 USD. 

Most of the vendors we talked to sold backyard chicken in informal markets, but we did interview one guy who sold in a formal market. That just means he rents a spot and is certified by the District Livestock Service Office. It's a totally different environment than those selling in informal markets--different regulations and challenges. Note taken for my report. 

Thursday evening after finishing work it was raining pretty hard so Alina and I decided to post up in a cozy coffee shop on Freak Street. (Freak Street is famous for once being a popular hangout among hippies in the 60s and 70s.) Hours later, the rain had not stopped but only gotten worse. I told her to not worry about taking me home on her scooter. I would find a taxi. Usually, taxis are honking at me nonstop to solicit business. "Madame, taxi??" "Good morningggg, taxiii?" Usually, it is not pouring rain. There were few taxis, and all were full. I stood under an awning to stay dry while strategizing. I saw a tourist opt for a rickshaw, whose drivers are also usually soliciting business from tourists. I thought "Hey, that foreigner is doing it. I'll do that, too." I climbed in a rickshaw and minutes later the driver was pedaling through foot-deep water in alleyways dodging screaming Nepalese and half-sunk motor scooters. People were pretty much going crazy. I felt as if the moment was surreal--as if I were in a movie. About fifteen minutes later when we made it to Thamel (home sweet home) I gave the rickshaw driver a whole lot of American money and a whole lot of respect. I promised myself I would take at least one leisurely rickshaw ride before I left the country--not in the rain. 

During the weekend I wanted to do last minute sightseeing since I knew I'd be leaving for the countryside soon. On Saturday Sunny took me with him to Boudha Stupa where people were worshiping for Buddha's birthday! I watched a form of worship where they go through the motion of lying on the ground and getting back up, placing their hands in prayer position over their heads then hearts, over and over...I THINK this is a form of a sun salutation like practiced in yoga. Shout-out to you yogis, especially at Barefoot Studio! Breezy, anyone, help on this subject would be fabulous! The motion is done 108 times per deceased family member they wish to pray for. 108 is a significant number in the Buddhist religion as there are 108 beads on the japamala, prayer beads. 

In contrast to experiencing Buddhist culture on Saturday, I went to Catholic mass on Sunday at Assumption Catholic Church. Their custom was to take off shoes before entering. Instead of pews, they had mats for you to sit on and kneel on. As far as actual order of mass, everything was the same. It was a beautiful traditional mass mixed with the local customs such as the taking off of shoes and greeting others with hands in prayer position under the chin. I found out about the church because I met a Nepali guy Alex who randomly asked, "Are you Catholic?" I thought he was psychic! He said he meets a lot of foreigners who are Catholic. Turns out he is as well, which is why he asked. Christianity makes up about 1.5% of the population, so it's strange and beautiful that in this huge city I met Alex, a Nepali Catholic. 

This weekend was especially fun because Emily arrived!! Emily starts work next week at Read Nepal in KTM. She, Jo, our new friend Alex, and I went to the Palace Museum and to one of our favorite hangouts to celebrate her arrival with momos (Nepali dumplings) and drinks. Emily slept from 5:00 p.m. that day until the next morning. It's exhausting getting here, but so worth it! Tonight we are all going out to eat for my Jhapa send-off. I fly out Tuesday a.m. 

Thanks everyone, again, for the encouragement and support! I'm really feeling settled in now, and I'm excited to have another two full months to experience Nepali culture! Good luck to Tyler, Cathrine, and Lauren who are also implementing value chain analyses for Heifer in Cambodia and India. They've arrived safely to their respective countries and will be starting soon as well!

Jo and I had a tour guide last week who wrote in my notebook,

Never
End
Peace
And
Love

Namaste! 

Abby

Thamel, Tourism, and First Day at Heifer

My first weekend in Kathmandu was amazing!! Saturday I went to the Garden of Dreams, which is like an enclosed space of beautiful landscaping with flowers and trees and ponds. I wandered deeper into Thamel and found myself technically outside the touristy district. I knew because instead of seeing shops with knock-off North Face and tea and felt bags, I saw more grocers and butchers and stores that sold house items. This is where I ran into Jo, a British girl about my age who is here doing a three-week internship for the Tourist Times. She was interviewing folks about why they are in Kathmandu. We ending up hanging out that day and planned to meet for dinner.

I picked a random lunch spot and ordered pizza for the second time. Seriously, everywhere I have gone in Thamel does not serve authentic Nepali food, and I had yet to eat any until today (more to come). So pathetic of me, right? The waiter convinced me to order a glass a wine, and he served Tabasco with my pizza. Here I am in the Middle of Kathmandu, Nepal eating a meal I could order at Newk's in Hattiesburg, Mississippi. I could picture Dr. Fitzpatrick and James Mitchell shaking their heads. And I was too.

The lunch spot was near a recent fire. Sadly, Thursday night a bookstore, Pilgrim's, caught on fire, along with all the books in it. It was a favorite spot for both tourists and locals and had thousands of used travel books and a cafe in the back. Thankfully, no one was hurt. 

While nomming on my Italian meal the wind started to pick up and pieces of book pages started flying onto the food. I moved into a covered area and so did a Canadian dad and his son. They had just been trekking and the son, Jacob, was soon to start teaching English. 

After lunch I took another 3 hour nap..oops. Then Jo and I had dinner and drinks that night. She is precious and hilarious! We were looking around Thamel for a place to eat, but the power had just gone out (I've gotten used to it) so we picked the place that looked the brightest (typical tourists, right?). It was a cute little place with an Indian style supper.

Sunday I visited Swayambhu, also known as 'Monkey Temple' (lots of monkeys!). It's one of the oldest Buddhist temple sites in Nepal. I was warned not to take the hundreds of stairs and to opt for a taxi take me up the short cut in the back. Y'all know I'm stubborn, so I took the stairs and got my workout for the day, or, week. By the way, Keens are not tennis shoes. The Buddhist site was absolutely beautiful! The big temple in the middle has the Buddhist eyes, and this structure is recreated on a smaller scale in other parts of the city. I watched a short ritual and was in awe of how sincere the worshipers were. It seemed as if these Nepalese cared so deeply about every step they took or motion they made to worship. 

I then visited Durbar Marg, a popular shopping location for "name brands." I walked about a mile away from Durbar Marg, because I knew a big market was nearby. I "entered" the market not really paying attention to directions, thinking I would get to the end of the street and the market would be "over." I soon found out it's not about "entering" and "exiting" the market...if you are on the street you are in the market...and it's not puny. I ended up in a web of streets, alleyways, and buildings of probably thousands of vendors. It was extra confusing because each alleyway had all the same things--tons of crock pots, fabrics, televisions, clothing, shoes, cleaning products, tea and coffee, bananas and oranges.   Each alleyway is also filled with taxis and motor scooters honking to dodge each other, as well as human bodies, in the attempt to get through. I became lost. I knew I was lost. But I knew I was fine because there is definitely not a shortage of taxis in this cities, and they love to solicit tourists (but I don't look like one, right?). 

It was on my way to find a taxi when my Mississippi skin felt something cool--artificially cool. I realized that I was approaching air conditioning for the first time in Nepal! I have not really been bothered by lack of air conditioning, because I'm usually outside anyway and at night I sleep with the windows open. But without even really knowing it, my body traced the AC and my I walked into a little shopping mall/area. I tried to look like I was in there on purpose (not just to feel the AC) so I continued walking to the back. I found this. I'm not sure what it is, but it was hidden behind loud and crowded streets of Nepalese, and I found it calming and beautiful. 

That afternoon I took another 3 hour nap and went to dinner at my favorite (yes-I already have a favorite) spot near my hotel called Gaia Restaurant. It's pretty touristy (I can't escape it) and it's all outdoor seating. They have lots of good food to choose from and tasty espresso and tea drinks. I have the same waiter every time, and he is so friendly! I can tell he tries to remember foreigners to make them feel special. There I met a fellow American, Californian, who was doing research on a glacier--yes, glacier, and he's my age. I went to sleep early to get ready for my first day at work!

Sweet Alina picked me up this morning on her motor scooter, and we scooted through the morning traffic to an area outside of the city, Lalitpur. When we entered the gates to the building I found it so pretty! And there were even cows nearby! I met everyone, and they are so welcoming! We were served "milk coffee" in the morning and afternoon and I was sooo excited to finally eat a legitimate Nepalese meal, dal bhat. It was delicious!! Dal Bhat is the tradition Nepalese meal consisting of rice and lentils. Dal=lentils and bhat=rice. It was really spicy, thus, really tasty. The entire staff sits around one big table to eat, and we each wash our plates afterwards. 

I'll be leaving for fieldwork in the countryside on May 28th. Until then I will be collaborating the the Heifer Nepal team to prepare. I'm happy to have officially started my partnership with Heifer, and I'm eager to get going in the field! I love, love the city, but I want to experience and understand Nepalese culture as it is in the countryside. More to come on what exactly I'll be doing work-wise.

Thanks everyone from home for the constant words of encouragement. I miss y'all! Students of Bill--forward on! Keep posting updates!

Voyage to Nepal and Day 1

All!

40+ hours of travel and I made it to Kathmandu today! I'm so lucky to be working in Nepal (dream country!) with Heifer International (dream organization!) for about 11 weeks. I'll be conducting a Value Chain Analysis (VCA) of backyard chicken in the Jhapa district, which is on the Indian border in the very southeastern corner of Nepal. Jhapa district is in the Terai valley, which is flatland. Close to zero elevation mixed with the rainy season is why I've been on antimalarials, which by the way, cause extremely bizarre dreams...that is worth a whole other blog.

The journey here was long but actually really enjoyable. On the international flight I sat next to a sweet woman originally from India who now lives in West Virginia. She told me about all the foods I need to eat and the cultural norms I need to be aware of. She showed me pictures of her grandchildren, and like a proud aunt, I bombarded her with pictures of Shepherd. I was also lucky to have met my new pal Ms. Raza in Delhi. We both had a ten hour layover in the Delhi airport before headed to Kathmandu, so we spent that time chatting, drinking coffee, walking, walking, walking, napping, etc. Raza is trekking in the Himalayan mountains for two weeks. In the final flight headed to Kathmandu I sat next to a couple who happened to be continuous givers to Heifer. They like to purchase water buffalo. This is a picture of the Himalayas as we were flying into Nepal. 

As for KATHMANDU, I absolutely love it! I'm in a vibrant area called Thamel. My hotel is super basic but super cute. It, like many of the buildings in the city, has little courtyards and open-air sitting and eating areas. The weather is amazing--warm and windy--so everyone keeps windows open. On the main streets like in this picture, the dust is really bad, though. Many people wear masks and storekeepers are constantly dusting their products. 

I walked around today to explore! I did come across a Bill Clinton biography in a used bookstore. I took a really long nap (thanks jet lag!) then ate dinner with Alina, a sweet girl who works at Heifer Nepal. Nighttime in Thamel is exciting with lots of lights and live music and people everywhere. This weekend I will mostly do touristy things since I'll be leaving Kathmandu for Jhapa in about a week. Looking forward to an exciting weekend and learning more about Nepalese culture!