My first weekend in Kathmandu was amazing!! Saturday I went to the Garden of Dreams, which is like an enclosed space of beautiful landscaping with flowers and trees and ponds. I wandered deeper into Thamel and found myself technically outside the touristy district. I knew because instead of seeing shops with knock-off North Face and tea and felt bags, I saw more grocers and butchers and stores that sold house items. This is where I ran into Jo, a British girl about my age who is here doing a three-week internship for the Tourist Times. She was interviewing folks about why they are in Kathmandu. We ending up hanging out that day and planned to meet for dinner.
I picked a random lunch spot and ordered pizza for the second time. Seriously, everywhere I have gone in Thamel does not serve authentic Nepali food, and I had yet to eat any until today (more to come). So pathetic of me, right? The waiter convinced me to order a glass a wine, and he served Tabasco with my pizza. Here I am in the Middle of Kathmandu, Nepal eating a meal I could order at Newk's in Hattiesburg, Mississippi. I could picture Dr. Fitzpatrick and James Mitchell shaking their heads. And I was too.
The lunch spot was near a recent fire. Sadly, Thursday night a bookstore, Pilgrim's, caught on fire, along with all the books in it. It was a favorite spot for both tourists and locals and had thousands of used travel books and a cafe in the back. Thankfully, no one was hurt.
While nomming on my Italian meal the wind started to pick up and pieces of book pages started flying onto the food. I moved into a covered area and so did a Canadian dad and his son. They had just been trekking and the son, Jacob, was soon to start teaching English.
After lunch I took another 3 hour nap..oops. Then Jo and I had dinner and drinks that night. She is precious and hilarious! We were looking around Thamel for a place to eat, but the power had just gone out (I've gotten used to it) so we picked the place that looked the brightest (typical tourists, right?). It was a cute little place with an Indian style supper.
Sunday I visited Swayambhu, also known as 'Monkey Temple' (lots of monkeys!). It's one of the oldest Buddhist temple sites in Nepal. I was warned not to take the hundreds of stairs and to opt for a taxi take me up the short cut in the back. Y'all know I'm stubborn, so I took the stairs and got my workout for the day, or, week. By the way, Keens are not tennis shoes. The Buddhist site was absolutely beautiful! The big temple in the middle has the Buddhist eyes, and this structure is recreated on a smaller scale in other parts of the city. I watched a short ritual and was in awe of how sincere the worshipers were. It seemed as if these Nepalese cared so deeply about every step they took or motion they made to worship.
I then visited Durbar Marg, a popular shopping location for "name brands." I walked about a mile away from Durbar Marg, because I knew a big market was nearby. I "entered" the market not really paying attention to directions, thinking I would get to the end of the street and the market would be "over." I soon found out it's not about "entering" and "exiting" the market...if you are on the street you are in the market...and it's not puny. I ended up in a web of streets, alleyways, and buildings of probably thousands of vendors. It was extra confusing because each alleyway had all the same things--tons of crock pots, fabrics, televisions, clothing, shoes, cleaning products, tea and coffee, bananas and oranges. Each alleyway is also filled with taxis and motor scooters honking to dodge each other, as well as human bodies, in the attempt to get through. I became lost. I knew I was lost. But I knew I was fine because there is definitely not a shortage of taxis in this cities, and they love to solicit tourists (but I don't look like one, right?).
It was on my way to find a taxi when my Mississippi skin felt something cool--artificially cool. I realized that I was approaching air conditioning for the first time in Nepal! I have not really been bothered by lack of air conditioning, because I'm usually outside anyway and at night I sleep with the windows open. But without even really knowing it, my body traced the AC and my I walked into a little shopping mall/area. I tried to look like I was in there on purpose (not just to feel the AC) so I continued walking to the back. I found this. I'm not sure what it is, but it was hidden behind loud and crowded streets of Nepalese, and I found it calming and beautiful.
That afternoon I took another 3 hour nap and went to dinner at my favorite (yes-I already have a favorite) spot near my hotel called Gaia Restaurant. It's pretty touristy (I can't escape it) and it's all outdoor seating. They have lots of good food to choose from and tasty espresso and tea drinks. I have the same waiter every time, and he is so friendly! I can tell he tries to remember foreigners to make them feel special. There I met a fellow American, Californian, who was doing research on a glacier--yes, glacier, and he's my age. I went to sleep early to get ready for my first day at work!
Sweet Alina picked me up this morning on her motor scooter, and we scooted through the morning traffic to an area outside of the city, Lalitpur. When we entered the gates to the building I found it so pretty! And there were even cows nearby! I met everyone, and they are so welcoming! We were served "milk coffee" in the morning and afternoon and I was sooo excited to finally eat a legitimate Nepalese meal, dal bhat. It was delicious!! Dal Bhat is the tradition Nepalese meal consisting of rice and lentils. Dal=lentils and bhat=rice. It was really spicy, thus, really tasty. The entire staff sits around one big table to eat, and we each wash our plates afterwards.
I'll be leaving for fieldwork in the countryside on May 28th. Until then I will be collaborating the the Heifer Nepal team to prepare. I'm happy to have officially started my partnership with Heifer, and I'm eager to get going in the field! I love, love the city, but I want to experience and understand Nepalese culture as it is in the countryside. More to come on what exactly I'll be doing work-wise.
Thanks everyone from home for the constant words of encouragement. I miss y'all! Students of Bill--forward on! Keep posting updates!
I picked a random lunch spot and ordered pizza for the second time. Seriously, everywhere I have gone in Thamel does not serve authentic Nepali food, and I had yet to eat any until today (more to come). So pathetic of me, right? The waiter convinced me to order a glass a wine, and he served Tabasco with my pizza. Here I am in the Middle of Kathmandu, Nepal eating a meal I could order at Newk's in Hattiesburg, Mississippi. I could picture Dr. Fitzpatrick and James Mitchell shaking their heads. And I was too.
The lunch spot was near a recent fire. Sadly, Thursday night a bookstore, Pilgrim's, caught on fire, along with all the books in it. It was a favorite spot for both tourists and locals and had thousands of used travel books and a cafe in the back. Thankfully, no one was hurt.
While nomming on my Italian meal the wind started to pick up and pieces of book pages started flying onto the food. I moved into a covered area and so did a Canadian dad and his son. They had just been trekking and the son, Jacob, was soon to start teaching English.
After lunch I took another 3 hour nap..oops. Then Jo and I had dinner and drinks that night. She is precious and hilarious! We were looking around Thamel for a place to eat, but the power had just gone out (I've gotten used to it) so we picked the place that looked the brightest (typical tourists, right?). It was a cute little place with an Indian style supper.
I then visited Durbar Marg, a popular shopping location for "name brands." I walked about a mile away from Durbar Marg, because I knew a big market was nearby. I "entered" the market not really paying attention to directions, thinking I would get to the end of the street and the market would be "over." I soon found out it's not about "entering" and "exiting" the market...if you are on the street you are in the market...and it's not puny. I ended up in a web of streets, alleyways, and buildings of probably thousands of vendors. It was extra confusing because each alleyway had all the same things--tons of crock pots, fabrics, televisions, clothing, shoes, cleaning products, tea and coffee, bananas and oranges. Each alleyway is also filled with taxis and motor scooters honking to dodge each other, as well as human bodies, in the attempt to get through. I became lost. I knew I was lost. But I knew I was fine because there is definitely not a shortage of taxis in this cities, and they love to solicit tourists (but I don't look like one, right?).
It was on my way to find a taxi when my Mississippi skin felt something cool--artificially cool. I realized that I was approaching air conditioning for the first time in Nepal! I have not really been bothered by lack of air conditioning, because I'm usually outside anyway and at night I sleep with the windows open. But without even really knowing it, my body traced the AC and my I walked into a little shopping mall/area. I tried to look like I was in there on purpose (not just to feel the AC) so I continued walking to the back. I found this. I'm not sure what it is, but it was hidden behind loud and crowded streets of Nepalese, and I found it calming and beautiful.
That afternoon I took another 3 hour nap and went to dinner at my favorite (yes-I already have a favorite) spot near my hotel called Gaia Restaurant. It's pretty touristy (I can't escape it) and it's all outdoor seating. They have lots of good food to choose from and tasty espresso and tea drinks. I have the same waiter every time, and he is so friendly! I can tell he tries to remember foreigners to make them feel special. There I met a fellow American, Californian, who was doing research on a glacier--yes, glacier, and he's my age. I went to sleep early to get ready for my first day at work!
Sweet Alina picked me up this morning on her motor scooter, and we scooted through the morning traffic to an area outside of the city, Lalitpur. When we entered the gates to the building I found it so pretty! And there were even cows nearby! I met everyone, and they are so welcoming! We were served "milk coffee" in the morning and afternoon and I was sooo excited to finally eat a legitimate Nepalese meal, dal bhat. It was delicious!! Dal Bhat is the tradition Nepalese meal consisting of rice and lentils. Dal=lentils and bhat=rice. It was really spicy, thus, really tasty. The entire staff sits around one big table to eat, and we each wash our plates afterwards.
I'll be leaving for fieldwork in the countryside on May 28th. Until then I will be collaborating the the Heifer Nepal team to prepare. I'm happy to have officially started my partnership with Heifer, and I'm eager to get going in the field! I love, love the city, but I want to experience and understand Nepalese culture as it is in the countryside. More to come on what exactly I'll be doing work-wise.
Thanks everyone from home for the constant words of encouragement. I miss y'all! Students of Bill--forward on! Keep posting updates!
No comments:
Post a Comment